A guide to hyperpigmentation

For many, achieving a glowing, even complexion ranks high on the skincare agenda. So when dark spots start to appear, figuring out how to get rid of them is a high priority. Whether triggered by age, sun exposure, hormonal fluctuations, or genetic predispositions, hyperpigmentation is a prevalent skincare challenge that’s often hard to hide, slow to fade, and can even be a long-term issue for some.

Although completely removing the signs of hyperpigmentation is very difficult, you can take steps to reduce or prevent skin discolouration, helping your skin look younger for longer. Read on to discover what hyperpigmentation is, what causes it, and how best to treat it.

What is hyperpigmentation?

According to Dr Bradley Wagemaker, medical director at Lamelle Research Laboratories, hyperpigmentation, also referred to as “dark marks” or “uneven skin tone”, occurs when melanocytes (pigment-producing skin cells) are triggered to produce more melanin (the pigment naturally produced by our bodies). When more melanin is produced, it results in darker spots on the skin, such as melasma, freckles, or age spots.

What triggers melanocytes to produce more melanin? 

First and foremost is sun exposure. “Melanin acts as our bodies’ natural protector against the sun,” says Dr Wagemaker. When the skin is exposed to sunlight, it is triggered to produce more melanin, which is why we get tanned when spending time outdoors. He says that the sun is not the only culprit and hyperpigmentation may also be caused by hormonal fluctuations, trauma to the skin, acne, and certain medications.

Types of pigmentation 

Not all dark spots are the same. In fact, before you can treat your pigmentation, you must know which kind of discolouration you're dealing with:

•    Sunspots or age spots: Caused by overexposure to UV rays, they usually occur on the face, neck, forearms, and hands.
•    Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: Skin discolouration that lingers after certain skin trauma, such as acne, eczema, a rash, or picking a pimple or a cut.
•    Melasma: Indicates hormonal changes and is mostly, but not exclusively, associated with pregnancy hormones.
•    Freckles: These are formed due to an overproduction of melanin in a very specific area and in a cluster formation - they can be genetic or due to excessive sun exposure. 

Hyperpigmentation is complex and occurs deep within the skin so it can be very difficult to treat, especially if present for a long time. Dr Wagemaker explains that not all common treatments for hyperpigmentation will work for all types of hyperpigmentation, and that it’s important to understand what type of hyperpigmentation you have so you can use targeted prevention and treatments. Having said that, there are a few universal practices that could help keep mild to moderate hyperpigmentation at bay: 

1. Protect yourself against the sun. Wearing sunscreen 365 days a year is non-negotiable.

2. Don’t pick and scratch. Avoid picking at spots and scars which may cause further damage beneath the skin and darker patches or scarring to form.

3. Add effective ingredients to your routine. Vitamin C, retinol, niacinamide and AHA’s and BHA’s can all help protect the skin, increase cell renewal, and help lighten spots and even skin tone.

4. Try prescription skincare or professional treatments. Prescription-strength retinoid or hydroquinone, as well as in-clinic treatments such as chemical peels, laser treatments, microneedling, microdermabrasion, mesotherapy, etc., can help treat hyperpigmentation. 

Sorbet Salons offer transformative peels that gently exfoliate and help eliminate dullness, fine lines, and uneven texture, revealing a youthful, glowing you. The best part? They use world-renowned brands like Dermalogica, Environ, DMK, and Exuviance so you can customise your treatment.

Beauty note:

Hyperpigmentation can happen to just about anyone and when it comes to treating it, there are many options but above everything else sunscreen is the best place to start to keep skin discolouration at bay. However, if you are experiencing a severe case, or you suspect that it's hormonal, make an appointment with your dermatologist so they can assist you with the best solution.

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