1. Determine your skin tone
It may be tempting to pick your new shade based on the latest runway trend, but you’re much more likely to create a “wow” effect with a colour that suits you. Use this as a guide:
Warm: Green veins*, brown, black or hazel eyes, dark hair (black, brunette, deep blonde or red)
Neutral: Blue/green veins*, a mix of both cool and warm features, e.g. dark hair and blue eye
Cool: Blue veins*, green or blue eyes, light hair (silver, white or blonde)
*Check the inside of your wrist to see the colour of your veins.
2. Select your shade
Once you have deciphered your skin tone, choosing your new hair colour is simple: warm skin tones go well with warm colours, cool skin tones go with cool colours, and if you are neutral, you can play around with both cool and warm colours.
3. Do the strand test
No matter how excited you are to get going, always, always do the strand test – it could make the difference between great colour and a disaster. Select a small section of hair (about 1cm wide) from a not-so-visible layer of your hair just above your ear so that you can easily compare it to your skin tone. Dye the section as per the testing instructions in the box and examine it in natural lighting (not in your bathroom). Like it? Do it!
4. Gather your tools
Your hair dye kit may come with accessories of its own, but make sure you have these on hand to make the process easier.
- A 4-5cm wide paintbrush – applying the dye with this will be much easier than using a bottle.
- A bowl – use this to mix the dye.
- Hair clips – to separate your hair into sections.
- A rat tail comb – use one end to divide the sections and the other to distribute the dye.
- A pair of dark towels – to protect your clothes and clean up any spills.
- Vaseline – apply this on the skin beneath your hairline to prevent stains.
- An alcohol-based facial toner – to remove stains on skin and surfaces.
- A timer – so that you don’t leave the dye in for too long.
5. Ready, set, colour!
No matter how confident you feel, read through all the instructions on the box. Then – unless you’re a professional colourist with years of experience and chemical know-how (are you?) – stick to them. Especially the part about how long to leave the dye in. This is not the time to ad lib.
Apply the Vaseline to the skin around your hairline. Mix up the dye according to the directions. Use the comb to divide your hair into four main sections, clipping each in place. If you’re going darker, start with the top front section (where your hair is usually the lightest) first. If you’re lightening up, start in the back. Take a smaller subsection from the relevant main section and work in the dye.
6. Make it last
- Use a colour-protecting shampoo to prevent fading.
- Hot water expands hair cuticles and allows colour to escape, so wash your hair with warm or cool water instead.
- Depending on the shade and product you use, colouring your hair might dry it. A weekly conditioning treatment or hair mask will counteract dryness and increase the longevity of the colour.
- Avoid heat styling as much as possible and use a heat protector when you do.
Top tip
Don’t wash your hair immediately before dyeing. Most experts suggest waiting 24 to 48 hours after washing before dyeing as too-clean hair lacks the oils needed to absorb the colour.