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How to find the right hair colour for you

Get the best hair hue for you.

26 July 2005
by Leigh van den Berg

Colouring your hair isn't as easy as wash 'n go. We're here to assist in finding that perfect hue for your ‘do.

Find the right hair hue

Experts advise that you don't go more than three shades lighter or darker than your natural hair colour. However, whatever shade you choose, you need to find a shade that compliments your complexion.

Pale, pink-toned people look good in neutrals such as ash blonde and light or dark brown. (Red is a total no-no and will only make you look hot and sweaty.) Sallow, yellow-toned gals stand out in rich auburns or dramatic black, while lucky blue-toned pale faces can carry off just about anything. If you've got olive skin, it's best to wear your hair dark, and black skin glows when you choose shades of red, burgundy or plum.

So, what's your type?

It's the shade you're after that will determine which type of colouring agent you should be using:

  • Lightening up: If you'd like to go lighter, you need a product that contains ammonia or peroxide. This means that you have to go for a permanent colour.
  • Going deep: If you're planning on going all dark and mysterious, you can choose either a semi-permanent colour or a permanent colourant.
  • Nothing serious: Not looking for a long-term hair  colour relationship? Try a temporary colour. Provided you stick within range of your natural colour, these should wash out within two weeks.
  • Scared of commitment: If you're a little unsure of the shade, try the semi-permanent colour first. If you really, really hate it, you know that it should wash out in little over a month. However, a word of caution for the blondes: pay careful attention to the word ‘should', because the lighter and more porous your hair, the more likely it is to hold onto colour. Also note that red is one of the hardest colours to remove.

Always test first

There's a pretty good chance your hairdo won't be exactly the same colour as the model's on the dye box, because the model's natural hair colour is a probably a little bit different to yours. Pick a kit with a shade guide that indicates the results you can expect in relation to your natural hair colour. You should also perform a strand test and patch test before you go the whole hog.

  • The strand test: Mix up a little colour (not the whole bottle, mind), apply it to one or two strands that are usually fairly hidden and wait the full developing time to see the colour result.
  • The patch test: Apply a dab of colourant to cotton wool and tape it to the crook of your arm for the full developing time. If you start to burn or sting, chances are you're allergic. In this case, DO NOT let this hue touch your hair, as­ an itchy, red scalp is nobody's best look!

Vital tips for your dye job

Most dye kits are sold with plastic gloves and a super-conditioning treatment for when you're done. Use them! The gloves will protect your nails from staining and the treatment puts the moisture back into your hair that colouring (especially lightening) can take out.

If you can, get a friend to assist in making sure the dye is worked evenly into your hair. Otherwise, employ a large hand mirror to check out the back of your head. Never leave the colour on past the maximum stated time and once you've rinsed it out, use an old, dark towel to dry off.

When you have grey hair

If you're seeing the first grey hairs (or have been sitting with them for a while not knowing quite what to do), there's nothing wrong with giving old Father Time the red card via a little sneaky colouring. Now, just how much grey are we dealing with...

  • Just a tad: Use a colour shampoo or colour mousse that's slightly lighter than your natural shade to turn greys into highlights that blend in with the rest of your hair. Alternatively, find a permanent shade that's the same as your natural colour and spot-colour only the offending greys.
  • Half-half: There are many good permanent colourants on the market that promise to gently cover grey. Grey hair can be quite resistant to taking colour, though, so you may need to apply the colour to the grey areas first, leaving the colour on just a little longer than on the rest of your hair.
  • My kids are calling me ‘granny': To get rid of a serious head of grey, you have to go the permanent-colour route. For the most natural effect, experts recommend that you stick within close range of your natural colour and touch up the roots every four to six weeks. You might want to think about lightening up too, because as you get older, your complexion tends to get paler and dark colours could make you look washed out.

How to maintain your dyed hair

All hair colour will fade because of unavoidable oxidation, but good aftercare can make your look last a little longer, so follow these tips:

  • Invest in a colour-safe shampoo and conditioner
  • Don't jump in the pool within 48 hours of colouring because the chlorine may alter the colour chemically
  • Wear a hat if you'll be spending a lot of time in the sun
  • Go easy on the heat-styling tools.

You may need a hairdresser...

Home colouring isn't for everyone. If your hair is heavily highlighted, hennaed or coloured with a metallic dye, consult a professional before making any changes. The same thing goes if you'd like a result that's three or more shades away from your natural shade or you have permed, relaxed or very damaged hair.

If your colour goes completely awry, get thee to a hairdresser fast. Nine times out of 10, attempting to fix things on your own will only make it worse.