Blush 101: How to choose the shade and finish that suits your look

Blusher is one of those makeup essentials that has been around for ages, and by ages we mean aeons. The Egyptians started the trend by blending ochre and animal fat to stain their lips and cheeks, and then the Romans jumped on the bandwagon with red vermillion, leading the way for the Greeks who weren't far behind with crushed mulberries.  

In the Middle Ages, it was touch and go for a while when people started inadvertently poisoning themselves with all sorts of weird blusher formulations. Fortunately, there was a comeback in the 1900s when the beauty industry was industrialised and makeup was actually tested before people wore it. Joy to the world, because we couldn’t imagine life without the ability to add a bit of colour to our look when occasion demands. 

We recently checked in with Martie Olivier, beauty therapist, makeup artist and owner of The Beauty Room in Malmesbury to find out more about her approach to choosing and applying blush. Here is what she had to say: 

How to choose your blush

“When it comes to blusher, there are quite a few things to consider,” says Martie. “There are plenty of variables, so it’s best to work your way down my tried-and-tested list.” 

Determine your skin tone

Figure out which skin tone you are – the basic tones are fair or dark, with pink, yellow, blue or olive undertones. 

Natural or dramatic?

Now, decide what your goal is – do you want a natural look, or do you want to create some drama or ‘pop’? If you want a natural look, choose a blusher in a tone that is similar to your skin tone, like apricot hues if you’ve got a pink undertone or a warmer hue if you veer towards yellow. In the mood for some drama? Play towards the opposites – cool on warm skin tones, or warm on cool.

Matte or shimmer?

Decide whether you want a fun or sophisticated look. If you’re going for fun and festive, choose something with some shimmer; if you want to dial up the sophistication, opt for a more matte finish. 

How to apply your blush

According to Martie, the best way to apply blusher depends a great deal of the shape of your face. 
“If your goal is to achieve a sculpted look, there are certain rules of thumb that apply. Those with round faces should apply their blusher slightly lower down and towards the outside of the cheeks and avoid application to the apples of the cheeks; those with square faces can soften their angular features by applying colour to their apples and blending outwards for a soft look.” 

“Heart shapes can balance their features by applying blush in the shape of a 'C' to the top of the cheeks, sweeping it up towards the eyebrows; and those with longer faces can keep things on an even keel by starting under the pupils and blending to the middle of the cheeks in a slight semicircle. Oval faces can get away with just about anything – they’re the lucky ones in the facial shape family.”

Fun fact

Beauty enthusiasts in Japan apply rosy blush just under their eyes. The trend, which got its start in the Harajuku community, is said to make features looks rounder, softer, and younger. What do you think, will you give it a try?

IMAGE CREDIT: 123rf.com