From 3A to 4C - how to find your curl type

Not sure what your curl type is? We got some advice from Senior Hair Stylist, Zaidah Regal Adams, who helps us identify type 3 and 4 hair, while sharing some expert advice to ensure that your hair always looks – and feels – its best.

Identifying type 3 curls

Gently stretch a few strands of hair in front of a mirror. If your strands have a definite ‘S’ shape running through them, and your hair is generally full of body, then chances are that you have type 3 hair. 

Let’s look at type 3 hair in more detail

There are variations on type 3 hair, ranging from 3A to 3C. Type 3A hair is made up of looser curls and is generally described as “wavy” rather than curly. Type 3B curls are more tightly packed together, with a defined ‘S’ shape running through the strands. Type 3C is the curliest type of hair in this category, with strands even more tightly packed together and a curl pattern resembling spirals or springs.  

Identifying type 4 curls

Taking a step up from type 3 hair, type 4 hair can also be known known as coily or kinky hair, depending where in the category your hair falls. Type 4 hair might seem thick from afar, but it’s actually finer than the curly type 3 hair, meaning it needs extra TLC. The easiest way to tell if this is your hair type is if your strands are closely coiled together with a prominent zig-zag pattern running through each strand. 

Looking at the different type 4 curls

Type 4A is made up of mini curls tightly coiled together which are very fine and a little springy. Type 4B hair has a noticeable ‘Z’ and ‘S’ shape running through the hair – especially when wet. Type 4C hair on the other hand, is made up densely packed coils that are very delicate to brushing and handling.

Handle your hair with care

Take extra care when brushing or styling curly and coily hair. “This hair type needs to be handled gently to prevent breakage”, says Zaidah. “If you need to style it, then try to do so as naturally as possible while using products specifically made for curly and kinky hair. Make sure that you use a brush gentle enough for your hair, but brush as little as possible since this can cause significant damage, especially when it comes to type 4 hair, which is better to comb”, she adds.

Wash with ease

While it might feel as if you need to wash your hair often, try to limit washing to just a few times a week. “You should definitely not wash your hair everyday as this can cause a lot of breakage”, advises Zaidah. “However, when you do wash it, then be sure to use a product that is gentle yet moisturising since these hair types dry out very quickly”, she says. Type 4 hair in particular needs a lot more moisture, so look for products with shea butter and oils. 

Treat your hair

This hair type needs moisture as often as possible. Try using a leave-in treatment like a hair mist or mask which, says Zaidah, “will nourish and strengthen the hair”.  

Limit the heat

Finally, minimise the amount of time you spend with the dryer. “Try and limit time spent with heat styling tools, since this can cause your hair to become brittle and break”, adds Zaidah. After washing your hair, gently dab it dry with an old cotton t-shirt to soak up the excess moisture and either dry it on a very low setting on your dryer or allow it to air-dry. 

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