Dry scalp season: what to know (and do)

As temperatures drop and humidity levels shift, flakes tend to make an unwelcome return. But not every flaky scalp is dandruff. Sometimes it is dryness. Sometimes it is a disrupted scalp microbiome. To unpack the difference, we spoke to Cape Town-based dermatologist Dr Dilshaad Asmal, who explains that understanding what is happening at the root level is the first step to treating it properly.

What is really happening on your scalp

Your scalp is skin, and like the rest of your skin, it has its own microbiome. This is a delicate ecosystem of bacteria and yeast that helps maintain barrier function and regulate oil production.

When this balance is disrupted by seasonal changes, stress, hormonal shifts or harsh hair products, the scalp can become reactive. You may notice itching, flaking or tightness. The challenge is that microbiome disruption, dandruff and dryness can look similar – but they are not the same.

Dandruff explained

“Dandruff is a non-inflammatory condition mainly involving flaking of the scalp,” explains Dr Asmal. It is commonly linked to an overgrowth of a naturally occurring yeast called Malassezia, which thrives in oily environments. If your scalp produces excess sebum, this yeast multiplies more easily, leading to visible flakes. These flakes are often larger, slightly yellow and may be accompanied by itchiness.

Dry scalp or microbiome disruption

A dry scalp is caused by a lack of moisture, not excess oil. Cold air, hot showers and stripping shampoos can weaken the scalp barrier, leading to tightness and small white flakes.

Microbiome disruption can sit somewhere in between. Over washing, aggressive exfoliation or constantly switching products can disturb the natural balance of the scalp. This may trigger both oiliness and flaking at the same time.

The key difference lies in the type of flakes and how your scalp feels. Tight and dry usually point to dehydration. Oily with larger flakes suggests dandruff.

How to treat dandruff 

If dandruff is the issue, targeted treatment is essential. Look for shampoos containing zinc pyrithione, selenium sulphide, ketoconazole or salicylic acid. These ingredients help reduce yeast overgrowth, control oil, and gently lift flakes.

Use the shampoo at least twice a week and leave it on the scalp for a few minutes before rinsing. “Consistency is key,” says Dr Asmal. Once the flakes improve, you can alternate with a gentle shampoo to maintain balance.

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The Body Shop Ginger Shampoo

Bioactive Hair Treatment D-Control Anti-Dandruff Lotion

Rosemary Antifungal Shampoo

How to restore a dry or disrupted scalp

If dryness or barrier damage is the problem, shift your focus to soothing and repairing. Choose mild, fragrance-free cleansers and avoid over washing. Ingredients such as aloe vera, niacinamide, glycerine and ceramides can help calm and hydrate the scalp without clogging follicles. Avoid over-oiling the scalp, layering too many styling products or scratching flakes, as this can irritate follicles and worsen inflammation.

It is also important to remember that healthy hair begins at the root. When the scalp is calm and balanced, hair follicles are better supported, which can help reduce shedding and improve shine and strength. That balance is influenced by what happens internally, too. A diet rich in zinc, B vitamins, omega-3 fatty acids and iron supports healthy oil production and cell renewal, while managing stress helps regulate sebum levels and maintain a resilient scalp barrier.

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Kristin Ess Hair Scalp Purifying Micellar Shampoo

Pure Royal Scalp Treatment

Bioactive Hair Treatment Clean Up Peel

Selsun Instant fresh Mint

Softn’free Glyfusion Vitamin E Oil

MPL Sulfur SOS Hair and Scalp Oil

Take Note: If flakes persist despite consistent care, or if you notice redness, pain or hair loss, consult a healthcare professional to rule out underlying scalp conditions.

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