Why your routine needs retinol

Retinol, a form of vitamin A, is widely regarded as one of the best ingredients for reducing signs of ageing, earning praise from both dermatologists and beauty enthusiasts alike. Its ability to reduce wrinkles and tackle various skin concerns, such as acne, texture, dullness, pigmentation, and pore size, makes it a powerful, multi-tasking skincare ingredient.

Previously available only through a prescription because of the potency of vitamin A, retinol is now accessible in over-the-counter products, including gentler retinoids and retinol esters. These offer the same benefits with less irritation. However, with numerous retinol forms in serums, creams, gels, and oils, finding the right one for your skin can be difficult. To dive deeper into how retinol works, we spoke with Dr Judey Pretorius, a biomedical scientist and founder of Biomedical Emporium Skincare, who shared expert insights into this powerhouse ingredient and why it should be part of your routine.

What is retinol?

Retinol is derived from vitamin A, a nutrient essential for boosting cell turnover in the body. When applied to the skin, this powerful ingredient accelerates skin renewal, brightens the complexion, smooths the surface, reduces acne, and stimulates collagen production.

Why use retinol?

As we age, the rate at which our skin regenerates, slows down, resulting in a dull, dry, and wrinkle-prone complexion. Unlike many skincare ingredients, retinol penetrates deeply into the skin, working at a cellular level to support skin renewal. With consistent use, it helps resurface the skin, improving texture and appearance over time.

What does retinol do for your skin?

● Prevents wrinkles

● Brightens dull skin

● Treats acne

● Diminishes dark spots

How does it work?

Retinol works by stimulating skin cells in the outer layer to renew faster, allowing fresh skin cells to emerge. It also enhances collagen production and helps prevent the breakdown of existing collagen. The result is smoother, more-even skin that feels plump and hydrated.

When to start using retinol

The saying “prevention is better than cure” rings true – delaying the onset of wrinkles and other signs of ageing is much easier than minimising existing ones. Dr Judey recommends introducing retinol to your regime in your mid-20s to delay the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.

Which retinol to use

The term "retinol" has become a catch-all for a variety of vitamin A derivatives. These fall into four main categories: retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid. Some are naturally occurring, while others are pharmaceutical-grade formulations.

Choosing the right retinol depends on your skin type, concerns, and its tolerance to this potent ingredient. If you're new to retinol, it's best to start with a low concentration, such as 0.01%. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the dosage.

Remember, all retinoids are effective long-term. Research shows that lower-strength retinoids (0.01% to 0.03%) yield similar anti-ageing benefits as higher concentrations (0.03% to 0.3%) over time. So don’t feel that a “milder” version won’t work!

How to incorporate retinol into your routine

Retinol can make the skin more sensitive, so it’s important to introduce it gradually to avoid irritation. Many over-the-counter products combine retinol with soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and niacinamide to make it easier to incorporate into your routine. However, if you have sensitive skin, it’s a good idea to consult with a dermatologist before starting.

Retinol should be used at night because it can increase your skin's sensitivity to sunlight. Begin with applying it once or twice a week and gradually increase use as your skin builds tolerance. Initial redness and irritation are common, but these usually subside after a few weeks of consistent use.

Keep in mind that results take time. It typically takes about three months of nightly use to start seeing a noticeable reduction in fine lines, dark spots, and acne.

Retinol rules

● Alternate with exfoliating products: On nights when you apply retinol, avoid using exfoliating products or peels. Using both together can irritate the skin.

● Sunscreen is a must: Since retinol increases skin sensitivity, apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) every morning. This will protect your skin from UV rays and prevent further damage or discolouration.

● Don’t mix retinol with vitamin C: Although both ingredients are skincare powerhouses, using retinol and vitamin C together can increase irritation and reduce the effectiveness of both. It's generally recommended to apply vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night, allowing the skin to absorb each product effectively. 

● Use with hyaluronic acid: Hyaluronic acid, the super hydrator that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, is the perfect companion to retinol. These two ingredients can be layered, and hyaluronic acid will ensure your skin stays hydrated (as retinol may exacerbate dryness).

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• Skin Republic Pure Retinol 1% Serum 
• Biovene Retinol Night Lift Tightening Night Cream
• La Roche-Posay Retinol Serum B3
• Eveline BioHyaluron Restoring Cream 60+
• Sorbet Lifting Serum
• Oh So Heavenly Age Defence Retinol Pro Facial Serum 
• Vichy Liftactiv Retinol Serum
• Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Serum Fragrance Free

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