Ever wondered what models are using to get their skin to look so flawless? The answer’s simple: Photoshop retouching! The fact is, pores are an essential part of your skin’s structure and everybody’s got them. They provide oil to your skin and assist in keeping it moisturised. However, if you have very large pores or lots of blackheads, there are a few tips and tricks on how to keep pores looking clean, clear and a little less obvious.
What causes large pores?
The two main factors that will determine the size of your pores are your genes and your age. People with a dry skin type will be more prone to getting wrinkles, but they’re likely to have smaller pores. Those with a naturally more oily skin type may well end up with less wrinkles, but tend to have larger pores. As you get older and your skin loses elasticity, your pores will dilate a little more. Blackheads are another contributing factor to large pores. If your pores are clogged with dirt or oil, they’ll dilate and look a lot bigger and more noticeable.
Last, but not least, don’t underestimate the damaging effects of the sun. Overexposure to its rays will cause your skin to thicken, creating extra cells that build up around your pores. Even though they’re microscopic, these extra cells may cause your pores to appear a little larger than they actually are.
So how do I shrink them?
Unfortunately, the short answer, according to Dr Dagmar Whitaker, a dermatologist practising in Cape Town, is you can’t! However, there are ways to slightly reduce the appearance of large pores.
The first step is to look out for skin creams that contain the following ingredients: retinol, alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acid (BHA) or salicylic acid.
- Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. When used on blackheads, it helps to loosen the ‘plug’ and can smooth and improve the overall texture of your skin. “It restructures the skin by increasing cellular turnover and helps with cell differentiation, which basically means just making sure that the cells do the right thing,” Whitaker says. “It also regulates oil production, so it helps to reduce the formation of blackheads, but can dry out your skin – a rather irritating side effect of vitamin-A products.” Another irritating side effect? Retinol causes your skin to become more sensitive to the sun. That’s why it’s so important to wear a high SPF during the day.
- AHAs are family of fruit acids that include glycolic, lactic, citric and malic acid. They’re fantastic mild chemical exfoliators that gently dissolve the ‘glue’ that holds the dead skin cells together, causing them to gently flake away. They’re a great choice for sun-damaged skin.
- BHA (often referred to as salicylic acid) is a fantastic choice when it comes to busting blackheads. It’s oil soluble, so it penetrates deep down into the pores and dissolves bacteria and debris. Some people may experience a little stinging when applying it.
Your pore-minimising action plan
Together with Dr Whitaker, we’ve devised a simple pore-minimising, blackhead-busting battle plan!
Step 1 – cleanse
“In the morning, just wash your face with water,” Dr Whitaker recommends. “If you cleanse too much you’ll dry out your skin. This sends a signal to your oil glands to produce more oil and it starts a whole vicious circle.” Use a neutral cleanser or mild exfoliator in the evening.
Step 2 – treat
Apply a moisturiser that contains one of the blackhead-busting ingredients we’ve just told you about. “Use vitamin A (retinol), AHA or BHA products in the evening and an oil-free sunscreen in the morning,” says Dr Whitaker.
Step 3 – resist the urge to squeeze!
Dr Whitaker says the worst thing you can do to a blackhead is to squeeze it. “All you achieve is a bruising of the skin, which adds to the risk of scarring, pigmentation and early wrinkling – all for the sake of having removed the 'plug' for a day or two. After that it’s coming back in any case,” she says. “Leave the work to the creams!”
Step 4 – disguise
If you wear foundation, you could always try a silky, silicone-textured primer. A primer is a lotion that you apply underneath your make-up. It evens out your skin texture and gives your foundation something to cling to, ensuring it lasts a little longer. When looking for coverage, skip the heavy foundations – they’ll only settle into large pores and make them look more obvious. Instead, opt for light, oil-free liquids, mousse formulations or sheer powder minerals. Don’t think a shimmery product will reflect the light away from your pores – it’ll highlight them instead! Need to touch up during the day? Use a light blotting powder or blotting tissues to lift off any excess oil.
Top tip
If you use a magnifying mirror to apply your make-up, consider switching to a regular mirror. Like those unforgiving mirrors in clothing-store dressing rooms, the magnifying mirror makes large pores appear even larger, which may be increasing your worries unnecessarily.