Whether you want to go lighter or darker or simply try something completely new, home hair colouring can be a convenient, affordable solution if you’re short on time or on a tight budget. However, there can be a higher element of risk involved.
“When I was 17, I decided to dye my hair red for the weekend,' says Patricia, 28, whose hair is naturally blonde. “The product said, 'Lasts through 8 to 12 shampoos,' but by Sunday evening I'd washed it about 20 times, and my hair was still bright orange! I began to panic, as our school had a strict policy when it came to hair colour. I was nearly expelled on the Monday when I arrived with a carrot-orange head. I have never trusted home hair colour since.” Patricia isn't alone – from unexpected colour results to serious damage, home hair colouring can be tricky.
“You can do your own colour at home, provided you read and follow the package instructions to the letter. And remember always to do a patch test. If you want to go for something fancy or want to add high- or low-lights, rather let the salon do it for you. However, home hair colouring is quite safe if you just want to enhance or accent your own shade,” says beauty expert Pepe Sofianos.
The right shade
“Your complexion should determine your hair colour,” says Sofianos. “Whether you go lighter or darker, stay within two or three shades of your natural hair colour. Consult the shade guide on the box if you're unsure.” Darker skin looks best with deep colours like burgundy, and medium to dark brown or black, says Sofianos, while medium skin works with warmer shades like beige-blonde, honey brown, strawberry blonde and light auburn. Pale skin suits neutral golden tones like platinum or silver-blonde or light brown. Would you like to be able to tell if you'll make a gorgeous blonde? If you had blonde hair as a child, then the answer is probably yes. If you didn’t have blonde hair as a child, it doesn't mean you won't make a beautiful one now, but it might be best to have your hair lightened by a professional.
What's hot?
A new innovation in home colour is quick colours – hair colour that only needs 10 minutes to develop. These products include an ingredient, Arginine, that helps colour pigments penetrate quicker into the hair's core. Perfect for women on the go.
“'Panels' of hair colour are gaining in popularity,” says Shelene Shaer of Tanaz Hair. “For example, a darker shade along the panel of hair running below the ears, and a lighter shade on the top panel, rather than simply one uniform colour throughout.”
You can achieve this look at home. Section off all the hair on the top half of your head using a comb and fasten it with a clip. Apply hair colour to the bottom panel (the hair that remains loose) according to the package instructions. Once you've thoroughly rinsed out the colour, towel dry and fasten the bottom panel of hair with a clip at the nape of your neck. Now you can repeat the same process with the top panel using a slightly lighter shade. Be careful not to let the product bleed into the bottom panel. Thoroughly rinse the product out of the top panel, then wash your entire head of hair and style as desired.
Before you throw caution to the wind and try something radically different, though, get the go-ahead from your hairdresser to find out if the hair colour you want to use at home is likely to suit you and your hairstyle. Then feel free to try it out.
Caring for your colour
When it comes to prolonging your colour and keeping your tresses in good shape, a little caution can go a long way. If you want to use curling or straightening tongs on your coloured hair (especially if your hair has been lightened), “make sure you use a heat styling aid to prevent damage,” says Shaer. Hair also has a tendency towards being dry and brittle a week or so after you have applied colour, so apply a weekly nourishing hair mask to keep it shiny, and use moisturising shampoos and conditioners formulated for colour-treated hair to prevent fading.
Top home-colouring tips
- “Buy two boxes of colour if you have medium to long hair,” says Shaer. You don't want to run out halfway through the colouring process.
- If you are concerned about whether your eyebrows will match your new hair colour, “invest in a brow pencil and match them up. Or enjoy being different - it's trendy,” says Sofianos.
- If you simply want to maintain your hair colour, apply product to the roots only, not your whole head.
- Check the texture of your hair before applying colour. Is it dry and brittle? “This means your hair is likely to be porous,” says Shaer, “so you may have to use more colour as it is likely to wash out.' Adds Sofianos, “be very careful if your hair is fine as it will take on the colour quickly and could be damaged if you leave it on too long, or you may get a darker shade than you bargained for.”
- If you are colouring your hair because you want to cover grey, be conscious of what the regrowth will look like when your colour grows out. If your hair is dark and you have only sparse grey, you can select a darker shade, recommends Shaer, but if your hair is fairly to very grey, opt for something lighter. Use a hair product specifically designed for grey hair, and be prepared to reapply colour every six weeks.
- You don't have to reach for dark sunglasses or a brown paper bag if your hair colour goes horribly wrong. “If it's really bad, go to a hair salon and get it fixed professionally!” says Sofianos. “However if it's not a complete disaster, wait it out. Hair colour fades every time you wash your hair, so try washing it every day for a week and it will soon start to lose its intensity.”