Skincare products have become increasingly advanced in recent years. Over-the-counter (OTC) products promise eternal youth, blemish-free skin and the end to a host of skin ailments. But let’s face it, the variety of products on offer can be pretty daunting, and often we base our choices on the packaging or price, rather than what’s inside.
“It’s often up to the individual to decide on an item, guided by friends, advertisements, sales staff and pharmacists,” says dermatologist Dr Kevin Westermann. It’s not surprising, then, that we sometimes feel overwhelmed when choosing skincare products. The good news is that it’s not difficult to make informed choices. We asked four South African dermatologists for their advice on choosing skincare products that really work.
If you have acne...
The two most important ingredients to look out for in an acne remedy are salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide.
Salicylic acid is a mild acid that acts as an exfoliator, peeling off the skin’s top layer and opening blocked pores, says dermatologist Dr Selwyn Schwartz. “It’s a safe and effective treatment for mild acne and oily skin, and it’s especially useful for targeting blackheads and whiteheads,” he says. Salicylic acid has limitations, though – it doesn’t target acne-causing bacteria, or the production of sebum (oil), and its effect stops as soon as you stop using it.
Benzoyl peroxide is the most effective way to kill acne germs (known as P. acnes). It is, however, a strong bleaching agent and is therefore always used in low concentrations (between two and 10 percent). “The higher concentrations are not necessarily more effective,” says Schwartz. If you have a sensitive skin, you will respond better to a lower concentration. Like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide also works as an exfoliator, increasing cell turnover and clearing pores. Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide both strip the top layer of skin, making your skin more sensitive to the sun. Make sure you apply an oil-free moisturiser with a SPF of at least 15.
If you need anti-ageing aid...
Alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) are fruit-based acids that encourage the skin to shed dead skin cells. This kick-starts your skin’s natural renewal process: new skin cells are formed and your skin looks more radiant. According to dermatologist Dr Lizmaré Bronn, AHAs can help brighten skin that looks dull and they can repair superficial sun damage, but they aren’t likely to have a noticeable effect on wrinkles.
If wrinkles are your main concern, then you need a product that contains retinoids. Retinoids are vitamin-A derivatives that cause the skin to produce new cells more quickly, so it becomes thicker and denser. Clinical trials have shown that after a few months of retinoid use, skin becomes smoother, age spots fade and fine wrinkles disappear. According to Schwartz, those using retinoid treatments usually see a continuous improvement in their skin for the first six months, but no further change after that. Once you stop using the retinoid product, your skin will gradually return to its original condition.
“Some anti-ageing creams contain retinoids in the form of retinol, but to obtain the most effective concentrations you need a doctor’s prescription,” he says. Retinoids increase your skin’s susceptibility to sunlight, so a good sunscreen is essential. Many anti-ageing treatments contain vitamin C. We all know this vitamin as a formidable cold and flu fighter, but why does your skin need it?
Vitamin C encourages the production of collagen (your skin’s natural fibre) and the renewal of skin cells. It is also a powerful antioxidant, which means that it mops up free radicals that can cause further ageing.In the past, cosmetic companies struggled to incorporate it into skincare products, says Schwartz. This was because it is an unstable vitamin that does not easily penetrate the skin. “They seem to have cracked the problem and skin preparations containing vitamin C are now readily available. But whether they reduce ageing in the skin remains to be seen,” he adds.
Other ingredients with proven anti-ageing benefits include copper peptides (wrinkle reduction and improved elasticity) and the polyphenols found in green and white tea. Polyphenols have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory qualities.
If pigmentation is a problem...
Pigmentation occurs when the skin produces too much melanin, resulting in dark, uneven patches. It can be triggered by many factors, including pregnancy, the contraceptive pill and excessive exposure to sunlight. “The most effective treatment for pigmentation is hydroquninone, but this is only available on prescription in South Africa,” says Dr Westermann. This is due to its harmful side effects (it can result in the permanent bleaching of skin).
There are however, some OTC products that can help even out pigmentation.
“Products containing vitamin C can be helpful because it has mild bleaching properties when used topically,” says Bronn. Take note that vitamin C is usually listed as L-ascorbic acid on skincare ingredient lists. A sunscreen with a SPF of 15 or more is essential in preventing further pigmentation. “Look for new high-factor sunscreens containing Mexoryl or Tinasorb. They give longer protection from the sun and reduce pigmentation,” says Schwartz.
Skin SOS!
More serious skin concerns such as eczema, rosacea and psoriasis are best treated with the help of a dermatologist. However, there are a few OTC products that can help alleviate their symptoms. Dermatologist Dr Rowena McKenzie shares her advice:
- Oil-based moisturisers and non-perfumed bath oils can alleviate the dry skin associated with eczema.
- Creams containing salicylic acid can target the plaques formed by psoriasis. This will enable other topical creams to penetrate the skin more easily.Sunscreen is essential for those suffering from rosacea. Choose a brand that offers UVA and UVB protection.
- According to McKenzie, self-medicating with OTC products is safe, as long as you are sure of your diagnosis. However, if you do not see any improvement in your skin in six-to-eight weeks, or if you develop an irritation to the products, you should see a dermatologist. “Over-the-counter products are often good first-line agents for mild disease, but once patients have moderate-to-severe skin disease, they will need stronger prescription products,” she says.
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