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Skincare terms explained

Don’t know your HAs from your AHAs? Here’s a quick guide to making sense of skincare ingredients

13 March 2014
by Lynette Botha

Antioxidants

A powerful combination of vitamins A, C and E, that helps to repair and protect skin cells and eradicate damaging free radicals.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Acids that are found naturally in fruit and sugar cane that have an exfoliating effect on the skin, including lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, and pyruvic acid (glycolic acid being the most common). AHAs improve your skin’s texture and help to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and dark spots. Paula Begoun, skincare expert and bestselling author of Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, says AHAs are best for normal-to-dry or sun-damaged skin, because they help bind moisture, while boosting collagen production and smoothing uneven skin texture.

Benzoyl peroxide

Found in products for oily or acne-prone skin, Benzoyl peroxide gets rid of acne-causing bacteria.

Collagen

This protein is produced naturally by the body, but over time natural production slows down. It assists in plumping up skin to give it a youthful appearance.

Green tea

Green tea is rich in antioxidants which help reduce inflammation, build collagen, and reduce cell damage associated with exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays.

Hyaluronic Acid (HA)

A very important, naturally occurring ingredient that is produced by the body, but can also be supplemented. Assists the skin in retaining moisture, therefore remaining optimally hydrated and softening the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Linoleic/ linolenic acids/ phospholipids

"These fatty acids replenish the skin's intercellular matrix, preserving its appearance," says Begoun. In addition, they function as cell-communicating ingredients, 'telling' the appropriate skin cells how to function in a healthier manner. They also help reduce inflammation, believed to be a key factor in how the skin ages, she says.

Non-Comedogenic

Non-comedogenic means that the product will not clog the pores, effectively preventing blackheads and acne.

Parabens

Parabens are chemical preservatives added to beauty products to extend their shelf life. There have been some questions raised about the safety of parabens, however the conclusion of numerous studies on the subject is that they do not pose a health risk, especially in the small amounts used in personal-care products.

Peptides

Peptides are little protein molecules that have an ability to change the way skin cells operate. They encourage skin cells to increase circulation or produce more collagen naturally, among other things.

Retinoid/Retinol

Vitamin A is also known as Retinol. Retinol is one of beauty’s superstars, capable of everything from reducing the appearance of wrinkles and dark spots to assisting with combating acne. Some Retinol products are only available by prescription, while others can be obtained over the counter.

Silicone

Silicone is a smoothing ingredient, added to products to aid the skin in retaining moisture.